Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph, 2014 vegan and in the 1950s Ernesto

and in the 1950s Ernesto Zarate helped kick off the region's quality revolution by co-founding the Cambados Albarino festival — then

She farms biodynamically in northern Rheinhessen and ferments with whole clusters

or just making sure you don’t run out mid-round

mineral wines from volcanic soils alternating with clay

The 2020 vintage was cool and balanced

Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph, 2014 vegan and in the 1950s ErnestoBenchmark Saint Joseph from one of the Northern Rhne's most beloved family domaines, in its lightest and most perfumed guise. Pierre and Jean Gonon farm steep, granite slopes in Mauves, the historic heart of the appellation directly across from the Hermitage hill, with which they share the same granitic bedrock. They farm organically (no chemicals since 2004; later certified), harvest by hand, and ferment whole ish clusters with native yeasts in the